Disclaimer:
This post is describing my own experience. It is NOT a recommendation or a guide to take similar actions to those described below or any of them. If you do take any of the actions described below then you do it on your own 100% risk.
Why?
The internal pin in the DC-IN socket of my Asus ZenBook UX31E-DH52 broke (inside the laptop). Therefore it was impossible to charge the battery, which was at that point fully depleted. No juice at all.
An authorized Asus service center claimed a motherboard replacement is required + no option to recover all the info in the SSD and out of the warranty period.
It happened 1.5 years after purchase and due to what I thought was a manufacturing defect. I tried to contact Asus and explain but they weren't willing to take responsibility. I am not a US resident so sending it to the US was not an option merely due to the fact that a US address was required for returning the computer. Didn't have one, didn't have time for this (already out of order for almost two weeks) + was not sure they would eventually take responsibility for it.
It happened 1.5 years after purchase and due to what I thought was a manufacturing defect. I tried to contact Asus and explain but they weren't willing to take responsibility. I am not a US resident so sending it to the US was not an option merely due to the fact that a US address was required for returning the computer. Didn't have one, didn't have time for this (already out of order for almost two weeks) + was not sure they would eventually take responsibility for it.
So options were either paying ~$900 for motherboard replacement and then trying to go after Asus for a recovery of this cost or try a DIY solution. Decided to go for the latter.
In the next pic the manufacturing defect can be observed. It shows the UX31E-DH52 compared to a UX31E-DH53 (same laptop, different SSD size). It is easy to note that the diameter of the DH52 DC-IN socket is too big.
Both models came with same DC charger. The DH52 simply didn't hold (mechanically) the charger's plug and after 18 months, due to micro movements back and forth, the internal plug of the socket broke. Any thin metal that is bent in all kind of directions back and forth eventually breaks.
The Solution
My DYI solution was to use an external DC socket. Purchased a plug-socket pair with wires at the plug's side for $3. Wires went into the DC-IN empty cylindrical bore and soldered to the pins of the original on-board DC-IN socket.
New socket was soldered to the wires of a compatible charger that its original plug was cut off. Used hot glue to make sure it's impossible to pull the socket and tear down the wires.
Final result looks like this:
Not the most elegant solution but not too bad either and a cost saver of $900 + all info on SDD now in back-up :)
How to take of the back cover?
This is explained nicely here ("Disassembly Page"):
Removing the Battery
Had to remove the battery since I intended to solder wires to the motherboard. Actually it was enough to detach its connector from the motherboard but I preferred to take it out completely.
There are 3 Phillips screws that need to be taken out and then you can lift the battery. This is also shown nicely in the Disassebly Page (link above).
What's missing in there is the info how to detach the battery's connector from the on-board socket. Took me a while to figure this simple issue but eventually I have - need to lift the connector up - it is pressed down to the socket on the board. With a little twist up it comes out. See some pics below:
Connecting the Wires to the Socket Ports
First I had to identify the soldering pads of the the original DC-IN socket's pins on the motherboard. They are located just at the edge of the motherboard.
Verified the pins using a multi-meter. Measured short circuit between what I suspected to be the broken plug's pin soldering pad and what's left from the pin inside the DC-IN hole and between the ground pad and the external frame of the USB port, which is located next to the DC-IN socket.
Next I took the replacement plug and pushed its wires through the DC-IN hole. Had to break (gently with a small flat screw driver) the plastic roof of the original socket to let the wires come out on top of the motherboard:
After that I soldered the wires to the mother board (did that only after verifying which wire is connected to the internal pin (+V) of the plug and which one is connected to its metal frame (GND)):
Placed back the black label that was on top of the soldering pads and that's about it at the laptop's side. Now needed to plug back in the battery connector, tighten the battery screws to hold it back in place and close the cover (and of course tighten its screws as well).
The DC Charger
Took a compatible DC charger and took of it's plug when it was disconnected from the mains.
Verified that the red wire is +V and that the white is GND and soldered it to a the socket:
And that was it. Finito.
